With a candy coupling transparencies, ethereal ruching and unreal prints on a behind of prolonged coats, this elegant collection was another win for Green, who has returned to London after display as a guest engineer during Pitti Uomo in June.
One of this city’s good talents, Green is personification on another turn from his associate designers. The collection he showed Monday, with a references to ancient and Gothic dress and worldly weave and fabric work, was transporting, directional — and whimsical.
Held in a section vaults of Old Billingsgate, London’s former fish marketplace on a Thames, a uncover was a salute to a supportive male and to opposite ways of sauce opposite centuries and cultures.
“I was meditative about a male finished of glass, and that thought of infirmity and how tension doesn’t meant weakness. It can also meant strength. It was lots of ideas of tradition and craft, too, and there was knitwear in each singular demeanour in some approach or another,” pronounced a designer, adding that he wanted his tumble tour to be “somewhere between sportswear, tailoring and surgical wear.”
Those aspirations translated into looks trimming from a indolent and gangling to a structured and textural: An array of string trenches in primary colors with whipping straps and drawstrings led to a lineup of djellabas finished in plaids and checks, some of that had small slashed cutouts.
Green interspersed those djellabas with prolonged hooded coats that had plain fronts and expensively printed backs. One imitation resembled a toile de jouy, while another featured a cartoonish hippie gal with prolonged issuing hair. Among a prolonged and indolent looks was a top-and-trouser garb with long, slashed sleeves and thespian flourishes of fishnet and crochet.
Structure came in a form of tops finished from stuffing and fishnet that removed chest armor. It also came as all a ruching and elasticized sum on a array of fluttery, cosmetic swift ensembles in colors as light and splendid as candy wrappers.